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Homing Problem SKR 1.1 Pro (no replies)

December 25, 2019, 1:42 pm
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Hi everyone,

I ran into a problem with my new SKR board which I not sure how to solve. I hope, someone can help me.

I just switched the board of my printer from an Anet board to BigTreeTech SKR 1.1 Pro. I edited the most recent BTT SKR 1.1 Pro Firmware in some cases, flashed the board, plugged the TMC2208 Drivers in and wanted to test it (especially the endstops) by connecting one stepper motor and one endstop. I powered the board and tested with Pronterface.

Moving the x-axis works. When I try to home the x-axis, the motor takes 3 sec before it starts moving and is just moving a tiny bit then. Triggering the endstop doesnt affect it at all. Checking the output of M119 tells me, that the endstops are triggered by default and activating the connected endstop doesnt change it at all.

If more information is needed, i gonna try my best to provide it. I also attached the configuration and configuratin_adv file. Thanks in advance!

And Merry Christmas everybody :)
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Marlin bugfix 2.0 Dual Extruder problem (no replies)

December 25, 2019, 1:49 pm
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I do not know if I am the only one with this problem, but after several hours of searching and I found no solution so I come to ask for help.

I have an original board CR-10S with the stepper driver for the second extruder.

I downloaded marlin bugfix 2.0 I made the settings for two extruders compiled and flashed the board.

I then sliced ​​a file to print with the E1 extruder. The printer warms the bed then heats up the second extruder hotend and then starts printing but the second extruder motor does not work.

I tried several times until I decided to print something small and let the printer go all the way to the end. The printer thinks it is printing, but no filament exits because E1 motor doesn't move. When it finish printing the printer turns off the hot bed but the second extruder hotend remains at the same temperature until I manually turn it off.

I have also tried with Marlin dev 2.1 and it happens the same but with exactly the same G-Code in Marlin bugfix 1.1.9 everything works fine.

Can anyone help?
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Bug: nozzle_to_probe_offset affects HOME-Z (no replies)

December 25, 2019, 4:28 pm
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Printer: Delta / Kossel Mini - Firmware 2.0 latest

The default : #define NOZZLE_TO_PROBE_OFFSET { 0, -10, -3.5 }
affects the HOME-Z value. DELTA_HEIGHT is set (in my case) to 212.5 mm, but the printer reports Z=216mm when in Home - as a nasty side effect the printer will crash into the print bed when going to Z=0

I reported the same issue a while ago with FW 1.1.9

Why in the world would a nozzle-to-probe offset modify the HOME-Z value ?
I expect that the reported cartesian position is always the position of the nozzle.
I'm using a FIX_MOUNTED_PROBE
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which Arduino IDE to be used with Marlin (no replies)

December 26, 2019, 9:12 am
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Hi there,

I recently had issues when compiling Marlin with different Arduino IDE versions. Since I was not able to find any information which version Arduino works with which Marlin, here is what I observed. I'm using a Delta printer (Kossel mini, with ATmega 2560 + Ramps 1.4)

Arduino (Win) 1.6.9
- compiled and worked well with all Marlin 1.1.0 versions
- compiled Marlin 1.1.9 - but my Printer behaves weird (motion speed is not correct)
- does not compile Marlin 2.0.1 - aborts with lots of errors

Arduino (Win) 1.8.10
- compiles and works well with Marlin 2.0.1
- does not compile 1.1.9 - gives error "Old configurations ?" - but I have no "#include" in my configuration*-files
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Use E1 temp sensor pins for E0 temp readings (no replies)

December 28, 2019, 1:42 pm
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Stats:
mks gen L v1.2 running 24v using 100k 3950 thermistors on both hotend and heatbed. Running marlin 1.1.9 firmware. PID is generated using m303 command.

Heat bed is working fine. I've used a handheld infrared sensor to check the temp on it and have good temperature readings both on the current 24v and the previous 12v.

Infrared sensor can't get a reading off the hotend as the area is too small and hard to get to while installed. (suppose I could pull it out but aarg.)

Hot end won't print PLA below 220 deg, and I get under extrusion at that temp. At 250, it sort of prints but top layers leave ragged gaps where they connect to the outside. At 260 it's better but now I'm just thinking this won't work. This problem is common among many types of PLA I've used and different thermistors/hotends. 12v and 24v. No it's not under extrusion. Tests show parts coming out a little fat if anything. There is no boiling or stringing even at 260 degrees, so it's got to be a temp issue.

What I'd like to try to do is use the thermistor input in the board for E1 as the temp reading for E0 but I cannot find anything on the web or in Configuration.h, or pins.h that make enough sense that I could do that. Does anyone know how or if this could be done?

Thanks in advance :)
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Marlin 2.0 lcd does not display correctly (no replies)

December 28, 2019, 1:46 pm
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Hi everyone,
My printer is an printrbot plus v2-1 (with wooden frame and a 20x4 lcd).
I try to flash Marlin 2.0 but the lcd display shit like an overflow and all move constantly.
LCD works fine with older version.

So my motherboard is an printrboard revD.

In my Configuration.h i uncoment and set :
#define MOTHERBOARD BOARD_PRINTRBOARD
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER
#define EEPROM_SETTINGS
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Marlin Rumba Z Calibration problem. (1 reply)

December 30, 2019, 7:34 am
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Greetings to all. I am hoping some one might be able to assist with an issue I have been battling for 3 days over. Mr Google does not seem to be willing to give up the answer and I am just making things worse the more I try to fix it.

I have built S.T.E.V.E. a COREXY from Thingiverse and very well documented I thought in the main on Youtube. [www.thingiverse.com]

I did ask for some assistance from his Youtube channel in October but never got any response so I assume he has moved on from that so I am not able to ask him any question directly, but surely my problem has to be a fairly simple calibration issue that I am messing up royally and making it worse the more I try to fix it. So I decided it was time to ask for help.

The designer used a Ramps Board with DRV8825 drivers, but when my first run nose dived straight into the heated bed it blew my Arduino Mega and as I have lots of Ramps boards but no more Arduino Mega boards, I dusted off a Rumba board I tried to use on a laser project.

I am therefore now using a Rumba board with 5 x DRV8825 drivers and apart from changing the board description in Marlin from Ramps to Board_Rumba I have left most of the settings as he gave them.

RUMBA board has been set with all 3 switches ON under all the drivers as recommended for the DRV8825 so I have 1/32 stepping which I assume is the same as for the Ramps.

Driver Voltages, I have X Y and extruder set at 0.6v and Z at 1.0 (two motors) although it does work at 0.6. Nothing getting hot to the touch at this time but I have added a fan just in case.

Both Z motors turn easily by fingers when power is off.

I doubt these changes would make any difference but I did play around to get the fans to work so have changed Config_Adv and set Extruder_0_Auto_fan_pin to 8 (was set at -1 and hotend fan was not coming on)

I also changed Pins_Rumba and swapped E0 pins with E1 pins as I found I had a faulty E0 connector. but apart from that it is as the designer set it up;

Let me know if you need me to post the settings, and if so which.

I have both Z motors running from the Z connector wired in Parallel.

All motors home correctly, and Z is Positive as the bed lowers and is at 0 when the hotend touches the bed so the direction is correct.

I have followed the build instruction, Marlin Settings etc to the letter but my Z is just not right nor I suspect is the Extruder setting.


Printing the 20mm calibration cube - X and Y are fine, Z is out by a large factor.

I first tried the supplied Default_Axis_Steps_Per_Unit settings of 160,160,800,837.1 which the designer has his working at.

My printed 20mm cube came out at 3mm thick when I stopped it at the displayed 8mm level as it was drowning in melted plastic.

I reason that I was out by a multiple of .65 so I changed the Default_Axis_Steps_Per_Unit to 160,160,2128,837.1 and my cube came out as 20.5x20.5x13.4

Aha, I thought, I am getting there. I then changed Marlin to 160,160,3274,837.1

Now my steppers are as noisy as heck, sounds like a rattling bike. The cube tries to print, but now I have the hotend clogging each time I try to run it. It ran fine for about 2 layers then the hotend clogged up. I cleared it, but it did the same thing second time out.

The only difference now is that I have tried to slow the Z speed down, and I am guessing that is where the clogging started. I may have also knocked the Z limit but have reset that again.

I thought that the speed was down to the change in the Default Axis stepper Unit to 3274 so I slowed the Default_Max_Feedrate from 500,500,100,25 to 500,500,10,25 and the Default_Max_Acceleration from 2000,2000,50,10000 to 2000,2000,10,10000

Still the Z sounds like a rattling bike when it is homing, but quiet after that.

Am I messing with the wrong settings? what do I need to do to get the calibration correct. I am guessing I also have an over extruding calibration as well as a Z calibration setting. X&Y are both fine.

Any one able to shine a light on my problem please?
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FolgerTech Kossel Stepper not responding (no replies)

December 30, 2019, 10:19 am
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I am trying to update the firmware on my FolgerTech Kossel to Marlin 2 in order to have thermal runaway protection. To do this I downloaded Marlin and modified an example kossel configuration.h file to resemble the parameters set on the manufacturer's firmware. After uploading the new firmware, One of the stepper motors that control one belt's movement did not respond and the machine cannot home. Upon a check of the endstops through m119 commands, the endstops appear to be working correctly when manually pressed or released. I also re-uploaded the previous firmware and the motors respond to input correctly so it is not a problem with the individual stepper motor. I have checked corresponding movement parameters in configuration and could not find an error. Is there a specific parameter that may cause this issue? The same error occurs when using the example kossel configurations without modifications.
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Skr Mini e3 v1.2 Max31855 (no replies)

December 30, 2019, 10:25 pm
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How do I use it? I have enabled it in config.h, but cannot find the pins to connect to in pins_BTT_SKR_MINI_E3.h.
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Filamentwidth sensor on MKS SBASE 1.3 problems (no replies)

December 31, 2019, 10:46 am
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Forgot to mention : Marlin 2.0

I run filamentwidth sensor on my k8200 without problems, and now i want to run one on my delta which have
MKS SBASE1.3.

But i can't for my life understand how to confure it.
The sensor is modified for 3.3v output

I thought about using termpsensor 4 as input.
I changed in mks_pins tempsensor 4 to: #define FILWIDTH_PIN P0_26_A3 // A3 (TH4)
Enabled filamentwidthsensor in configuration_adv_h

But then what? I get "some" readings from the sensor , but they are in the range of 45-60mm.
I was thinkig that the tempsensor input has a pullup resistor? Turn it off? How?

And as the sensor is designed for 0-5v where 3v is 3.00mm, but as it is 0-3.3v now where do i recalculate (value*1.515)?
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AKL001-12 magnetsensor über mks gen 1.4 als Filament sensor nutzen? (no replies)

January 2, 2020, 1:57 pm
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Ich haben einen 3D Drucker dort hat der Hersteller einen Magnetsensor ( repetier und duet) verbaut um das durchrutschen oder Stöckendes (AKL001-12 magnetsensor ) Filament Material zu erkennen


.
Diese Komponente möchte ich gerne auf einen anderen Mainboard mks ramps 1.4 betreiben .

Ist das Möglich ? Wie bzw wo anschließen und wie in marlin einrichten.?

Ist übrigens eine 2 wire Lösung



[www.nve.com]
Auf Seite 7 ist die Schaltung angegeben.
LED Eingang und gnd??

LG
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Manual movements move X Y Z twice the amount. Prints are sized good though. (3 replies)

January 2, 2020, 5:40 pm
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Hello everyone,

My Problem:
When not printing and I input gcode commands from any source (octoprint terminal, octoprint control menu, LCD, LCD terminal), to move my X, Y, and Z axis on my COREXY printer, it moves exactly twice the distance it looks like twice the speed. This would not be a problem but it ignores the set borders as it thinks that it is only halfway when it is at the limit. If I tell it to move X 10mm, it moves exactly X 20mm. My X, Y, and Z steps/mm are set to 80,80,400. The interesting thing is that prints come out dimensionally correct with these settings. I'm sure that my extruder would have the same problem as it over-extrudes like crazy when printing the micro print.

What I've tried:
I've tried setting the X, Y, and Z steps/mm to 40,40,200 in Marlin 2.0 and the menu moves exactly as it should and respects set boundaries but....The prints are small and it only prints in a quarter of the bed. I've also tried printing directly from my printer completely bypassing my Octoprint setup and the same thing. This issue is very difficult to search and from my searching, absolutely no one has this issue.

My setup
Tronxy CoreXY D01 printer, BTT SKR 1.3 mobo, BTT TFT35 LCD, TMC2208 UART drivers, Octoprint v1.3.12, 1.8° stepper motors, Marlin 2.0
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Strange stepper behaviour (no replies)

January 2, 2020, 5:17 pm
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Hello All,
I have a Geetech delta printer and I just installed Marlin 2.0.x
I have 200 step/rev step-motors with A4988 stepper modules.
When I ask the printer to move in the Z direction in steps of 0.01 mm, something only happens on the motor every 0.075mm.
Any Idea why that could be ? Stepper controllers are set to use 16 microsteps so with:
#define XYZ_FULL_STEPS_PER_ROTATION 200
#define XYZ_MICROSTEPS 16
#define XYZ_BELT_PITCH 2
#define XYZ_PULLEY_TEETH 20
#define DEFAULT_XYZ_STEPS_PER_UNIT 80
The printer should be able to move 0.0125 mm on each microstep.

This issue also causes auto-leveling to have a big and periodic error. See attached mesh plot.
I suppose the marlin sw uses high enough precision math in it's calculations..
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Adding ESP3D through ESP-01 to Ramps 1.4 (Marlin 2.0) (no replies)

January 3, 2020, 12:14 am
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Hi, i did some research on google and found no guide about Connecting to marlin through wifi.
Chris Riley has a good tutorial here about adding ESP3D to Ramps 1.4 but as the date of upload shows its before Marlin 2 was released. Though i followed all his gudies step by step for adding ESP-01 to Ramps 1.4 and Marlin 2.0 (via AUX1). When i open Web UI of ESP and do all Setup, The Marlin Doesn't accept any command from ESP. It Doesnt see the ESP at all. Where have i gone wrong ?
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Delta cart sags a little bit after homing (no replies)

January 3, 2020, 3:51 am
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Hi, one of the carts on my Delta printer sags a bit after homing. The others keep the endstops pressed but one of the carts sags more than the others after homing causing the endstop to be depressed.

I believe this also causes issues with printing. During printing the first layer is squashed too much on the opposite side on the heatbed.

I think it's the Z endstop causing the sagging. I have switched around the cables and endstops and indeed the problem moved with the axis driver so it's not the motors or any mechanical problem. Could it be a faulty driver? The machine works really well otherwise. It's only sagging of one axis after homing.

Now I'm thinking could it be holding torque being too low for the trinamic drivers? It's strange that it's only with one motor.

Searching for 'delta axis sagging after homing' didn't yield any useful results.

I'm using the latest Marlin 2.x bugfix with an SKR 1.3 and TMC2208 drivers.
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M900 = unknown command (2 replies)

January 3, 2020, 8:00 pm
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I'm trying to enter the K value M900 for linear advance and get unknown command on both ponterface and octoprint. Anyone else experience this, is there a fix?
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CoreXY bed levelling points reversed causing inaccurate level (no replies)

January 4, 2020, 8:19 pm
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Hi There,
I have a Tronxy X5SA Pro CoreXY printer and I have replaced the board with an SKR1.4 Turbo running Marlin 2.0.
The X and Y are homing correctly at the LF on the Min Stops. I have the bed levelling set to BILINEAR and the G29 command probes the 330x330 bed in a 4x4 pattern.

The issue...

The G29 probing starts at the LR of the bed and this makes all the Z heights skewed when printing resulting in too high and too low points in the bed. I have searched all over and there are some articles around that mention my issue but there seems to be no definitive answer. If I can get the probing to start at the LF of the printer (where X Y 0,0 is) and run clockwise then I believe I should then get the correct Z heights as expected. Any help here would be appreciated.

[attachment 113944 Configuration.h]
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Functional Marlin research for my core xy printer (1 reply)

January 6, 2020, 1:22 am
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I built a coreXY printer controlled by Marlin-1.1.8 and
pronterface or repetierHost.
I've been struggling for days to find the solution to problems that keep me going in circles.
I would like to have a configuration.h that works in order to adapt it to my machine
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mks gen L v1 and max31855 (no replies)

January 6, 2020, 2:28 pm
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Hello.
My friend wanna add max31855 on heater0 on Marlin 1.1.9
I set param -3
But when i compile it,ide give me

exit status 1
'DIODIO53_DDR' was not declared in this scope

Some know why,and if he can use sd card after connect max31855?
Thanks
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Bltouch not homing properly on SKR13 board (no replies)

January 7, 2020, 7:59 pm
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Hi there! I'm working on a BLTouch upgrade for my printer and having difficulty getting the unit to work. When I turn the unit on, it glows solid red. When running a G28, the probe deploys but after it "clicks" it just blinks and smashes into the bed.

I'm using an SKR 1.3 board and a new BLTouch 3.1 (I think?). I bought it on amazon and by all accounts its genuine.

My bltouch-relevant settings customizations are:

#define Z_MIN_PROBE_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true // Set to true to invert the logic of the probe.
#define Z_MIN_PROBE_USES_Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_PIN
#define BLTOUCH

I also have sensorless homing on the x and y directions using TMC 2209 drivers

Thanks!
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